Dried Epazote Herb Dysphania Ambrosioides Insecticide


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Dried Epazote Herb Dysphania Ambrosioides Insecticide

Tiny 5+gram bag of dried and crushed, oily, super potent seed heads, and leaves.

That’s about 2.5liters of spray when mixed up and really quite cheap when you compair the price of nasties like “Confidor” or commercial Pyrethrum sprays.

Very powerful as an insecticide and the thing to use when all other organic options have failed.

These days I only really use it as a spot spray on aphids and mealy bugs, or when my bean pods have a lot borers or weevils and I am harvesting seeds in less than a month.

Apparently it will kill ants and wasps, but never tried it myself, I just leave them alone these days.

It contains a whole host of natural chemical components that kill and/or repel most insects and animals for that matter.
Kept the possums off the mangoes and much less fruit fly this season, even with all the rain.

Naturally high levels of Ascaridole (up to 70%), limonene, p-cymene, and smaller amounts of numerous other monoterpenes and monoterpene derivatives (α-pinene, myrcene, terpinene, thymol, camphor and trans-isocarveol).

The ascaridole (1,4-peroxido-p-menth-2-ene) is rather an “uncommon constituent” of spices, and is also quite toxic to most creatures in large doses.

I am only selling this as an insecticide, not as a food, and although it is just a picked, washed, dried, crushed, powdered and packed herb, it really is toxic in large doses, so please do not eat it.

That’s where is other claim to fame comes in as a vermicide(kills worms in your gut) and to treat amenorrhea, dysmenorrhea, malaria chorea in many parts of the world still to day.
“Oil of chenopodium” is derived from this plant which Merriam-Webster defines it as “a colorless or pale yellow toxic essential oil of unpleasant odor and taste, … formerly used as an anthelmintic”.

In the early 1900s it was one of the major anthelmintics used to treat ascarids and hookworms in humans, cats, dogs, horses, and pigs. Anthelmintics are drugs that are used to treat infections with parasitic worms.

It was also sometimes referred to as Baltimore Oil, because of the large production facility in Baltimore that specialized in extracting the oil from the plant. Chenopodium was replaced with other, more effective and allegedly less toxic anthelmintics in the 1940s.

Epazote is still used to treat worm infections in humans in many countries today. (again, not recommended)

In Honduras, as well as other Latin American countries, the whole plant or the leaves are ground and added to water. This mixture is then consumed.
In a few areas in Latin America, the plant also is used on a large scale to treat worm infections in livestock.

Epazote not only contains terpene compounds making it unattractive to insects itself, it also naturally delivers partial protection to nearby plants simply by masking their scent to some insects, making it a useful companion plant.

How to make a spray.

First of all buy a packet of herb from me, or even better buy some seeds and Grow your own Epazote.

Then it is pretty easy, and no more expensive than the chemical laden mainstream alternatives.

Step 1. Add 1teaspoon which is about 1gram to 2cups or 500ml of water. Leave to cool for a few hours or even better overnight, stirring whenever you think of it.

Step 2. You need to filter this super fine so the nozzle doesn’t block. I use our home grown non-gmo organic cotton, but coffee filters, a folded over “Chux”, piece of sponge or just a old tshirt will work fine.

Step 3. Adding a surfactant, wetting agent or “sticker”, to help open pores on the plants and disolve waxes on the shells of beetles and grasshoppers really does help a lot.

Many folks use things like soap or dishwashing liquid, but worm wee works just as well and gives the plants a little feed at the same time. 30ml to 500ml water is plenty.

Step 4. Be very targeted in your spraying, only spray late in the afternoon, and only the parts of the plant that need protection. If you spray in the morning, or you spray large areas you will kill the bees and predatory insects that you should be protecting and encouraging, and maybe even burn the leaves of your plants..

The shinier, waxier, older, hardier the insect, the more applications needed to kill it.

Some insects will not actually die for ages, things like grasshoppers, stink bugs and green beetle, but if you watch carefully, they are often no longer able to feed or breed after a couple applications, which is all you are after anyway.

Please note, I offer no guarentees of effectiveness with your critters, at your place.

I only know what works here for me, and for that reason I am unable to offer advice for something I have never done myself, there, at your place…

Handle with care as it is a poison, a mild and natural one, but a poison none the less!

Finally, Don’t bloody eat it! And if are buying with the intention to do so, just don’t.

Buy it elsewhere, as I am not selling for human or animal consumption in any way. This is a bug spray, ONLY.

Grown by me and the Mrs organically, no chems, no nasties, no problems!!!

NOT FOR WESTERN AUSTRALIA or TASMANIA due to added expense and drama involved.

If you decide to try and buy anyway, this item will not be sent. 🙂